All those who are active in trekking around Pune are fascinated by the idea to reach Sinhagad from Katraj side. It is said that this trek should be done at night time during the summer. The moon light guides us. It takes entire night to complete the trek. Once we start the trek, we come out from either Katraj or Sinhagad. No escape in between.
Location and Getting there:
Take a PMT bus to Kondhanapoor from Swargate depot on Satara Road. This bus climbs the Katraj pass by old route. There is only one tunnel on the route. As soon as the tunnel is passed, we can request the driver to stop and get down. There is a small bungalow/quarter just outside the tunnel. A path climbs from the left side of the tunnel. Soon it reaches one very old Banyan tree. There is a temple beneath the beneath the tree. This is where the trek starts from.
The trek is nearly 15-16 kilometers. We have to climb 10-12 hills on the way. The hills nearly one third of the height of Sinhagad maybe. So it is a heavy trek. Alternatively, we can circumnavigate each hill. This way, we do not have to climb much. But we will have to walk a lot. And there is always a danger of loosing the way.
7:00 AM Started the trek
The leader had asked us to reach the Swargate bus stand by 6:00 AM. Finally nearly 20 of us had reached. It was drizzling. The bus started around 6:30 AM in the morning. I wondered what kind of rains would we encounter on the way to Sinhagad. Within half an hour, the bus dropped us outside the tunnel of the Katraj Ghaat.
Quickly we climbed from the left side of the road and reached the temple and the tree. We had the breakfast of patties. After a quick round of introduction, the leader gave guidance and set expectations for the trek. Some of us were coming for the trek for the first time. I was amazed by one elderly woman - a practicing doctor. She had done lot of treks earlier. For the last 5 years, she had stopped. And throughout the trek, she never lagged behind. She was always with the leading pack. On the treks, these kind of people inspire. Amazing stamina and amazing fitness.
Around 7:00 AM the trek started. Along the route, we met one group. They were preparing for a competition from Katraj to Sinhagad. All of them were collage girls with one teacher.
All hills at a distance wore green. On one side, we can see Pune city. On the other side, there are several hills. Soon we pass above the new tunnel. The wind was blowing strong. The constant wind made the grass incline on one side. It was drizzling intermittently. There were no birds, flowers, insects. Only green grass at a distance. All along the route, we could not see Sinhagad. Finally, we did not see it even when we were very near to it. It was immersed in the clouds.
After walking for nearly 6 hours now, we were hungry. It was raining heavily. We took out lunch in heavy rains. After resting for some time, we started. Now the speed was reduced.
In the next one and half hours, we reached the tarred road. The ascent on the right side takes to Sinhagad top. The descent on the left takes us to Kondhanapoor village.
It was half past 3 PM. Some of us started to have pain in their legs. A couple of them pulled all the way somehow despite knee pains, cramps. They did finish the trek. Hats off to their spirit. What else they could do?
It took us nearly another hour to reach Kondhanapoor village. The road was very scenic. It had rained heavily. All the fields were filled with rainwater. Rice was being planted.
Finally we got the bus to Swargate. It dropped us at Swargate by 5:00 PM. Thus ended one of the most rigorous treks.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Sunday, July 11, 2010
4-Jul-2010: Trek to Purandar and Vajragad forts
Purandar and Vajragad forts are twin forts near Sasawad, Pune. Both these forts are historically significant. They are very much accessible from Pune. Purandar and Vajragad are two of the forts in the basin of river Karha. Purandar is the place of Lord Indra. Indra's weapon is Vajra. Vajragad is very much important for Purandar.
Location and getting there
From Swargate, take a ST bus going via Saaswad. Alternatively, a PMT bus can be taken just outside the Swargate station. It takes nearly 1.5 hours to reach Saaswad from Swaargate, depending upon traffic in Pune city.
Just outside Saaswad station, there are six seater rickshaws which can drop us at the base of Purandar fort. The return journey also needs to be agreed with the same rickshaws. Otherwise it becomes difficult to get any conveyance back to Saaswad. These rickshaws take nearly half an hour to reach from Saaswad to the base of the Purandar fort.
Having a vehicle at your own disposal eases a lot of troubles.
History
Purandar fort has very significant history.
The place seems to be inhibited for several centuries. At the North East lies a twin peak. At the base of this hill, there is a two storied cave. There were some idols in this cave. Now, there are only traces of the idols. Hence the antiquity of this place cannot be ascertained. However it indicates that this place was inhabited since ages.
The earliest record of Purandar fort is the conquest of Purandar by Hasan Gangu, the first Bahamani king in 1350 AD. He fortified Purandar.
In 1596, Pune and Supe were granted to Maloji Bhosale, Shivaji Maharaj's grandfather. Purandar fort was included in this grant.
In 1646, Shivaji established his control on the fort. This was one of the first conquests by Shivaji Maharaj.
Sambhaji, Shivaji Maharaj's son was born here on 14-Mar-1657.
In 1665, Mughals besieged the fort under the command of Jai Singh I. A fierce battle ensured and Murarbaaji Deshpande laid his life in the battle. The fort went into the hands of Mughals. Treaty of Purandar was concluded at the base of this fort on 11-Jun-1665. Under the treaty, Shivaji Maharaj conceded control of 22 forts to Mughals. However, in 1670, Shivaji Maharaj won back the fort.
Under the Peshwas, the fort was a stronghold. Peshwas retreated to Purandar whenever Pune was under attack directly. In 1774, Swaai Madhavrao Peshwa was born on this fort. In 1776, second Treaty of Purandar was concluded between the Marathas and the British.
On 14-Mar-1818, General Pritzler marched into Vajragad. On 16-Mar-2010, Purandar was surrendered to the British without any fight as Vajragad commands Purandar fort.
During the British rule, the fort was used as a prison and sanatorium for the British soldiers. Quite a few buildings were constructed on the fort during this time.
After independence, the fort is in the command of NCC. One needs to take permission of the officer at the entrance to see the fort.
During these changes, we do not recognize the historical monuments. The birth place of Sambhaji Maharaj could not be ascertained. The existing residence of the Commanding Officer is built on the basement of the residence of the Peshwas. Probably this is where Swaai Madhavrao was born. Laxmi Naaraayan temple was beside the school. Cemetery was right next to the temple of Purandereshwar. Sakharam Bokil's residence was near the store of the Engineering Department.
7:00 AM Started from Swaargate
We had gathered at Swaargate station at around 6:30 AM. Going by public transport for any trek is a tough proposition. Waiting on a Bus Stand is even more difficult. The bus stands are not very clean and hygienic. In this case, we had to wait for just about half an hour. We boarded a bus going to Wai via Saasawad. In another 1 hour 30 minutes, we reached Saasawad. The bus stand looked much cleaner surprisingly. Probably because less number of commuters using the stand.
The breakfast was served in the bus stand itself. The leaders arranged for six seater, while we were seated in the station. Saasawad is the headquarter of Purandar taluka in Pune district. There are quite a few places we can visit in this taluka. This area is not developed for tourism. There is a scarcity of information due to apathy. The journey took us through Old Saasawad. We saw that the place has a rich history. There are several palaces and temples. One must visit the place just to explore the rich legacy.
The countryside was pleasant. It could have rained anytime. The landscape was green. And we were going at a slower pace in the six seater. (There were 10 of us in the six seater.) We could not locate the fort until we reached at the base of the fort. All the mountains were hidden in the clouds.
9:30 AM Started climbing the fort
11:00 AM Reached maachi of the fort
12:00 PM Reached Kedaareshwar temple on the top
2:00 PM Started for Vajragad fort
2:45 PM Reached Vajragad fort
4:00 PM Back to maachi
After spending nearly an hour on top of the fort, we started to descend back to the maachi. Now we explored some of the abandoned buildings. These buildings had fireplaces, big halls, verandas. If the roof is repaired, then these buildings can be functional again. These buildings indicate that the fort had been some camp for the British. Nowadays, NCC has a camp on the fort. But nothing is maintained.
Within half an hour, we returned to the maachi. We could not locate the place where Sambhaji Maharaj was born. Nor could we locate the place where Sawaai Madhavrao Peshwa was born.
Immediately, we started to descend to the base village. The six seater was waiting for us to take back to Saaswad. In nearly half an hour, we were back to the base of the fort.
5:00 PM Naarayanpoor
The six seater took us into Naarayanpoor village. The village is famous for Datta temple. However adjoining the Datta temple, there is ancient Shiva temple. It must be nearly 800-1000 years old. There are six pillars. Probably they constructed a hall in front of the temple. The top portion is constructed with bricks. Now it is painted taking out antiquity of the monument. It only indicates that this place must have been important during earlier times.
6:00 PM Saaswad
The six seater dropped us back at Saaswad bus stand. Now getting back to Pune on a Sunday evening is really difficult. We struggled a lot to get some space in any of the buses going to Pune but in vain. Finally after nearly an hour's wait, some of us boarded one bus. Others stood in the bus.
8:00 PM Pune
The bus dropped us at Swaargate bus stand by around 8 PM.
Thus ended another good trek. I was glad to see the ancient temple in Naarayanpoor. However we could not preserve the crumbling heritage. Our neglect, apathy comes in between.
On the Purandar maachi itself, what was the need to construct so many Shiv temples? Having only one and maintaining it would have been far better.
Location and getting there
From Swargate, take a ST bus going via Saaswad. Alternatively, a PMT bus can be taken just outside the Swargate station. It takes nearly 1.5 hours to reach Saaswad from Swaargate, depending upon traffic in Pune city.
Just outside Saaswad station, there are six seater rickshaws which can drop us at the base of Purandar fort. The return journey also needs to be agreed with the same rickshaws. Otherwise it becomes difficult to get any conveyance back to Saaswad. These rickshaws take nearly half an hour to reach from Saaswad to the base of the Purandar fort.
Having a vehicle at your own disposal eases a lot of troubles.
History
Purandar fort has very significant history.
The place seems to be inhibited for several centuries. At the North East lies a twin peak. At the base of this hill, there is a two storied cave. There were some idols in this cave. Now, there are only traces of the idols. Hence the antiquity of this place cannot be ascertained. However it indicates that this place was inhabited since ages.
The earliest record of Purandar fort is the conquest of Purandar by Hasan Gangu, the first Bahamani king in 1350 AD. He fortified Purandar.
In 1596, Pune and Supe were granted to Maloji Bhosale, Shivaji Maharaj's grandfather. Purandar fort was included in this grant.
In 1646, Shivaji established his control on the fort. This was one of the first conquests by Shivaji Maharaj.
Sambhaji, Shivaji Maharaj's son was born here on 14-Mar-1657.
In 1665, Mughals besieged the fort under the command of Jai Singh I. A fierce battle ensured and Murarbaaji Deshpande laid his life in the battle. The fort went into the hands of Mughals. Treaty of Purandar was concluded at the base of this fort on 11-Jun-1665. Under the treaty, Shivaji Maharaj conceded control of 22 forts to Mughals. However, in 1670, Shivaji Maharaj won back the fort.
Under the Peshwas, the fort was a stronghold. Peshwas retreated to Purandar whenever Pune was under attack directly. In 1774, Swaai Madhavrao Peshwa was born on this fort. In 1776, second Treaty of Purandar was concluded between the Marathas and the British.
On 14-Mar-1818, General Pritzler marched into Vajragad. On 16-Mar-2010, Purandar was surrendered to the British without any fight as Vajragad commands Purandar fort.
During the British rule, the fort was used as a prison and sanatorium for the British soldiers. Quite a few buildings were constructed on the fort during this time.
After independence, the fort is in the command of NCC. One needs to take permission of the officer at the entrance to see the fort.
During these changes, we do not recognize the historical monuments. The birth place of Sambhaji Maharaj could not be ascertained. The existing residence of the Commanding Officer is built on the basement of the residence of the Peshwas. Probably this is where Swaai Madhavrao was born. Laxmi Naaraayan temple was beside the school. Cemetery was right next to the temple of Purandereshwar. Sakharam Bokil's residence was near the store of the Engineering Department.
7:00 AM Started from Swaargate
We had gathered at Swaargate station at around 6:30 AM. Going by public transport for any trek is a tough proposition. Waiting on a Bus Stand is even more difficult. The bus stands are not very clean and hygienic. In this case, we had to wait for just about half an hour. We boarded a bus going to Wai via Saasawad. In another 1 hour 30 minutes, we reached Saasawad. The bus stand looked much cleaner surprisingly. Probably because less number of commuters using the stand.
The breakfast was served in the bus stand itself. The leaders arranged for six seater, while we were seated in the station. Saasawad is the headquarter of Purandar taluka in Pune district. There are quite a few places we can visit in this taluka. This area is not developed for tourism. There is a scarcity of information due to apathy. The journey took us through Old Saasawad. We saw that the place has a rich history. There are several palaces and temples. One must visit the place just to explore the rich legacy.
The countryside was pleasant. It could have rained anytime. The landscape was green. And we were going at a slower pace in the six seater. (There were 10 of us in the six seater.) We could not locate the fort until we reached at the base of the fort. All the mountains were hidden in the clouds.
9:30 AM Started climbing the fort
11:00 AM Reached maachi of the fort
12:00 PM Reached Kedaareshwar temple on the top
2:00 PM Started for Vajragad fort
2:45 PM Reached Vajragad fort
4:00 PM Back to maachi
After spending nearly an hour on top of the fort, we started to descend back to the maachi. Now we explored some of the abandoned buildings. These buildings had fireplaces, big halls, verandas. If the roof is repaired, then these buildings can be functional again. These buildings indicate that the fort had been some camp for the British. Nowadays, NCC has a camp on the fort. But nothing is maintained.
Within half an hour, we returned to the maachi. We could not locate the place where Sambhaji Maharaj was born. Nor could we locate the place where Sawaai Madhavrao Peshwa was born.
Immediately, we started to descend to the base village. The six seater was waiting for us to take back to Saaswad. In nearly half an hour, we were back to the base of the fort.
5:00 PM Naarayanpoor
The six seater took us into Naarayanpoor village. The village is famous for Datta temple. However adjoining the Datta temple, there is ancient Shiva temple. It must be nearly 800-1000 years old. There are six pillars. Probably they constructed a hall in front of the temple. The top portion is constructed with bricks. Now it is painted taking out antiquity of the monument. It only indicates that this place must have been important during earlier times.
6:00 PM Saaswad
The six seater dropped us back at Saaswad bus stand. Now getting back to Pune on a Sunday evening is really difficult. We struggled a lot to get some space in any of the buses going to Pune but in vain. Finally after nearly an hour's wait, some of us boarded one bus. Others stood in the bus.
8:00 PM Pune
The bus dropped us at Swaargate bus stand by around 8 PM.
Thus ended another good trek. I was glad to see the ancient temple in Naarayanpoor. However we could not preserve the crumbling heritage. Our neglect, apathy comes in between.
On the Purandar maachi itself, what was the need to construct so many Shiv temples? Having only one and maintaining it would have been far better.
Sunday, July 4, 2010
27-Jun-2010: Trek to Sinhagad
Sinhagad (सिंहगड) is fort adjoining Pune city. It is host to many historical events. It was closely associated with Shivaji Maharaj. The fort is so accessible to Pune that every holiday, several people throng the place as a picnic spot. Just a few years ago, the fort was visible from most of the places in Pune. Due to recent increase in high rise buildings in and around Pune, the fort can be seen from fewer places.
Location and getting there:
a) From Shaniwar Waada, there are city buses plying to the fort. On Sunday, the frequency is very good. It takes more than one hour and thirty minutes to reach the base.
b) From Swargate, there are buses plying to Kondhanapoor village through Katraj Ghat (pass). As soon as the road climbs the Katraj Ghat, there is a village on the highway called Nasarapoor. Take a right turn from this place. Another 10 kms will take you to Kondhanapoor village. From the village, there is a tarred road which joins the tarred road from Aatkarwaadi. I am not sure if there is any trekking route from Kondhanapoor village.
c) The other option is to take your own vehicle and proceed on Sinhagad Road. The road winds through Khadakwaaslaa military academy, Khadakwaaslaa dam, Donaje village. Before it reaches the base of the fort, the road starts climbing on the left side. That takes it straight to parking lot above.
Aatkarwaadi is the base village of the fort. We enter the fort from Pune entrance. The other entrance of the fort is Kalyaan entrance.
History:
The fort has a long history which predates Muslim rule in the area. It was originally named as Kondhana after sage Kaundinya. This name was prevalent during Shivaji Maharaj's times. The entrance of the Kaundinyeshwar (कौन्दिन्येश्वर ) temple indicates its antiquity. The caves and the carvings indicate that it was probably in use for nearly two thousand years.
The fort was captured from a Koli tribal chief, Naag Nayak by Muhammad Bin Tughlak in 1328 AD. A Persian poem Shahanaama-E-Hind written in 1350 AD refers this fort as Kondhaanaa.
Shivaji Maharaj conquered this fort in 1647 by convincing Siddhi Amber - the Adilshahi guardian of the fort. In 1649, it had to be handed over to Adilshah as a bargain to release Shahaji Maharaj. In 1656, the fort was again won by Shivaji Maharaj by winning over the guardian of the fort.
In 1665, the fort was handed over to Mirza Raje Jaisingh as a part of the Purandar Treaty. In 1670, the fort was captured by Taanaaji Malusare. He laid his life to win the fort. He raided the fort on a dark night from an unimaginable side. The legend that he conquered the cliff with the help of a Monitor Lizard is not true. It remained under Maratha rule till 1689. The Mughals conquered the fort in 1689 after the death of Sambhaaji Maharaj. In 1693, Maratha sardaar Naavajee Balkawade captured the fort. Chatrapati Rajaraam took shelter of the fort during Mughal raids. He breathed his last on the fort on 3-Mar-1700.
Aurangzeb conquered the fort in 1703. The Marathas again took it over in 1706. It remained under Maratha control until 1818. The British conquered the fort in 1818.
Lokamanya Tilak purchased a house on the fort. He used to stay on the fort frequently. One of his meeting with Mahatma Gandhi took place on the fort.
Nowadays, the fort is used for training by National Defense Academy. The recruits are punished and sent to the fort with heavy loads on their back. Every Sunday, the students climb the fort it seems.
27-Jun-2010
11:45 AM Started from the base village Aatkarwaadi
We reached the base village Aatkarwaadi by our vehicle. Along the Sinhagad Road, reach Khadakwaasala village. From there, proceed to Donjae village. At the crossroad, proceed straight. The road ends in Aatkarwaadi village. This village lies at the base of the Sinhagad fort. All along the route, there are several hotels, resorts, farms, farm houses. In the winter, raw jowar (hurada) is available. So near from Pune and yet so far from the crowded urban life. Alas, this is changing very fast due to overcrowding.
2:00 PM Reached the fort
We parked our two wheeler in front of one of the houses. The house owners charge 5 rupees for one two wheeler. Unfortunately, they do not give any snack or lunch. Probably because generally people bring food or they have it on the top of the fort.
Due to extremely low visibility, rains, and heavy crowd, we could not explore the fort much and decided to return back.
4:30 PM Started descending
After spending some time and rearranging the sac, we started to descend. Just to be sure that we reach the base much before sunset. We descended slowly at our own pace. Enjoying the beauty of the nature during monsoon. Still there were some people who were starting to climb. Not sure if they intended to reach the top before dusk.
6:15 PM Reached Aatkarwaadi
At our own pace, we reached Aatkarwaadi. Again rearranged the sac. Rested for some time. By now, many of the vehicles were already gone. The villagers have this one day to earn some extra income. They make sure that they earn most on that one day.
Content with the heavy workout, we headed home. Along the way, we enjoyed the beauty of the Khadakwaasalaa dam. There was heavy rush and traffic jam.
Location and getting there:
a) From Shaniwar Waada, there are city buses plying to the fort. On Sunday, the frequency is very good. It takes more than one hour and thirty minutes to reach the base.
b) From Swargate, there are buses plying to Kondhanapoor village through Katraj Ghat (pass). As soon as the road climbs the Katraj Ghat, there is a village on the highway called Nasarapoor. Take a right turn from this place. Another 10 kms will take you to Kondhanapoor village. From the village, there is a tarred road which joins the tarred road from Aatkarwaadi. I am not sure if there is any trekking route from Kondhanapoor village.
c) The other option is to take your own vehicle and proceed on Sinhagad Road. The road winds through Khadakwaaslaa military academy, Khadakwaaslaa dam, Donaje village. Before it reaches the base of the fort, the road starts climbing on the left side. That takes it straight to parking lot above.
Aatkarwaadi is the base village of the fort. We enter the fort from Pune entrance. The other entrance of the fort is Kalyaan entrance.
History:
The fort has a long history which predates Muslim rule in the area. It was originally named as Kondhana after sage Kaundinya. This name was prevalent during Shivaji Maharaj's times. The entrance of the Kaundinyeshwar (कौन्दिन्येश्वर ) temple indicates its antiquity. The caves and the carvings indicate that it was probably in use for nearly two thousand years.
The fort was captured from a Koli tribal chief, Naag Nayak by Muhammad Bin Tughlak in 1328 AD. A Persian poem Shahanaama-E-Hind written in 1350 AD refers this fort as Kondhaanaa.
Shivaji Maharaj conquered this fort in 1647 by convincing Siddhi Amber - the Adilshahi guardian of the fort. In 1649, it had to be handed over to Adilshah as a bargain to release Shahaji Maharaj. In 1656, the fort was again won by Shivaji Maharaj by winning over the guardian of the fort.
In 1665, the fort was handed over to Mirza Raje Jaisingh as a part of the Purandar Treaty. In 1670, the fort was captured by Taanaaji Malusare. He laid his life to win the fort. He raided the fort on a dark night from an unimaginable side. The legend that he conquered the cliff with the help of a Monitor Lizard is not true. It remained under Maratha rule till 1689. The Mughals conquered the fort in 1689 after the death of Sambhaaji Maharaj. In 1693, Maratha sardaar Naavajee Balkawade captured the fort. Chatrapati Rajaraam took shelter of the fort during Mughal raids. He breathed his last on the fort on 3-Mar-1700.
Aurangzeb conquered the fort in 1703. The Marathas again took it over in 1706. It remained under Maratha control until 1818. The British conquered the fort in 1818.
Lokamanya Tilak purchased a house on the fort. He used to stay on the fort frequently. One of his meeting with Mahatma Gandhi took place on the fort.
Nowadays, the fort is used for training by National Defense Academy. The recruits are punished and sent to the fort with heavy loads on their back. Every Sunday, the students climb the fort it seems.
27-Jun-2010
11:45 AM Started from the base village Aatkarwaadi
We reached the base village Aatkarwaadi by our vehicle. Along the Sinhagad Road, reach Khadakwaasala village. From there, proceed to Donjae village. At the crossroad, proceed straight. The road ends in Aatkarwaadi village. This village lies at the base of the Sinhagad fort. All along the route, there are several hotels, resorts, farms, farm houses. In the winter, raw jowar (hurada) is available. So near from Pune and yet so far from the crowded urban life. Alas, this is changing very fast due to overcrowding.
2:00 PM Reached the fort
We parked our two wheeler in front of one of the houses. The house owners charge 5 rupees for one two wheeler. Unfortunately, they do not give any snack or lunch. Probably because generally people bring food or they have it on the top of the fort.
Due to extremely low visibility, rains, and heavy crowd, we could not explore the fort much and decided to return back.
4:30 PM Started descending
After spending some time and rearranging the sac, we started to descend. Just to be sure that we reach the base much before sunset. We descended slowly at our own pace. Enjoying the beauty of the nature during monsoon. Still there were some people who were starting to climb. Not sure if they intended to reach the top before dusk.
6:15 PM Reached Aatkarwaadi
At our own pace, we reached Aatkarwaadi. Again rearranged the sac. Rested for some time. By now, many of the vehicles were already gone. The villagers have this one day to earn some extra income. They make sure that they earn most on that one day.
Content with the heavy workout, we headed home. Along the way, we enjoyed the beauty of the Khadakwaasalaa dam. There was heavy rush and traffic jam.
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